In practice, this implies that the Olympus images are more squares, whilst the Fuji shots are more rectangle-shaped. Despite the fact that the Olympus viewfinders are fairly excellent, the Fuji cameras often offer brighter, larger viewfinders with more customization options for displaying information. When utilizing a flash, this might be a nuisance, thus the Olympus has an edge in this regard.
The Fuji has a distinct feel to it for me; it's a slower brain process body, if you get what I'm saying. However, when I do choose to use it, which is very often, I am not in a rush. Consequently, I might see myself purchasing an X-T20 (@ijm5012 with the touch screen), a 10-24, maybe a, and two of the WR f/2. I just acquired my OM-D e-m10 ii and mm kit lens, and I have just completed my first shooting experience with both. The most significant differences, in my opinion, are the absence of uniformly excellent image stabilization (IS) on the Fuji and the mess that is dealing with raw files.
I have no preference for any particular manufacturer or system, however I must say that Fuji and Olympus are two of my favorite camera manufacturers. Examining the auto white balance data, we can see that the E-M1 II is almost similar to the prior picture. However, the X-T2 produces a more balanced finish than the X-T1, with a small tendency towards a greenish/cooler appearance. It has been decided that both files should be post-processed in order to minimize noise as much as possible without losing too many features.
The next chapters will provide us the opportunity to observe direct comparisons between the two images in terms of other elements such as color and noise level. One issue that has to be mentioned is how the RAW files from the two cameras react when they are post-processed using various software packages. With the exception of a few well-composed photographs, the majority of the images from the race that I captured were out of focus. The X-T20, on the other hand, has a great keeper rate, which is comparable to that of the X-T2 and X-Pro2. Additionally, with firmware 2.0, the camera has gotten a few minor adjustments to the autofocus algorithm.
In terms of pricing, I've found the x-T10 to be the same as the E-M10 mark II, both with kit lenses, which makes the selection a little more difficult. According to what I've read, the M10 is more of an entry-level camera, but it still has the M5 and M1 components in it, so it isn't losing much in terms of quality. With the same lenses as you, I made the transition from Sony A600 to m43 and then to Fuji XT2 with a few more lenses.
Because you may adjust the exposure and highlight/shadow characteristics in RAW files, you have greater flexibility in increasing the dynamic range of your images. Using the picture below, which has a lot of contrast between the bright outside light and the gloomy inside, we can see that using a middle ground exposure on both cameras produces results that are quite comparable. The Olympus produces more noise in the shadows, but with proper post-processing, you may improve the quality of the image. The Natural profile on the Olympus is the one I use 90 percent of the time because I enjoy how well it balances the look of the image with the rich colors it produces. The Vivid profile increases the saturation even more, whilst the Muted profile reduces the contrast and saturation a little bit.
Apart from a much improved C-AF, the picture quality seems to be comparable to that of my Olympus bodies, so I would not consider it a determining factor. However, I have not yet had the opportunity to test their fast prime lenses in action. At this point, I'm not missing image stabilization since the photographs I'm capturing are more than fine, despite the fact that I'm typically utilizing quicker shutter speeds than I would with my Olympus cameras. One of the most significant shortcomings of mirrorless cameras is their short battery life, but the 7 III is one of the first cameras to defy that preconception. With a battery life of 710 shots per charge, it outperforms every other mirrorless camera in this price range—only Sony's latest-generation, and far more costly, cameras have a similar battery life. No other full-frame mirrorless camera, not even Canon's EOS R or Nikon's Z7, can boast a battery life of more than 400 images per charge.
With the Fuji, there are just a few instances in which you will not be able to capture the picture that you want. If you are leaning toward the OM-D camera and aren't concerned with 4K footage, the E-M10 mark II is a good option to explore. It has the same sensor as the previous model, but it has more customization possibilities and more settings. Additionally, both cameras include time-lapse, focus peaking, unique picture effects (referred to as Art Filters on the E-M10 III and Advanced Filters on the X-T20), copyright information, and WiFi capability, among other things. The last option lets you to manage the cameras from a distance using a smartphone and an accompanying app.
Because there was just a one-stop difference between the two photos, the highlight and shadow recoveries were more or less comparable. Because the E-M1 II does such a good job of preserving the highlights, I took a second image with the Olympus camera, but this time I boosted the exposure by one stop (1/2000s instead of 1/4000s), which resulted in a more pleasing result. The exposure for the first photograph below was the same on both cameras, as you can see. Then, using Lightroom's -100 and +100 sliders, I attempted to restore as much information as possible in the shadows and highlights. Note how the Olympus OM-D captures more detail in the brightest portions of the image than the Fujifilm X-T2 despite the fact that both cameras have similar sensor sizes.
Both cameras have attractive designs, but the Pen F takes first place in the aesthetic rankings thanks to its stunning form, elegant metal finish, and higher-quality fake leatherette grip than the other. However, the size of the sensor is not the only aspect to consider in this case. To compare the Olympus Pen F and Fuji X100T, you must consider the camera as a whole, which in this instance means taking into account both the camera's overall capabilities as well as the light and excellent lenses available from Olympus and Panasonic. When the highest settings are used, both cameras have a tendency to wash off the details excessively, with the Fujifilm being the biggest offender.
At this level, I don't have to fiddle with the settings too much in order to keep the noise under control. The Olympus files, on the other hand, need a greater amount of color and luminance noise reduction than the Fujifilm files. Those who like to play around with black and white photography will like the fact that the E-M10 III lets you to add several color filters to the monochrome mode.